Siciliana In Training

An American Expat on Love

2012-01-01T18:29:00.000+01:00

"All men fear death. It's a natural fear that consumes us all. We fear death because we feel that we haven't loved well enough or loved at all, which ultimately are one and the same. However, when you make love with a truly great woman, one that deserves the utmost respect in this world and one that makes you feel truly powerful, that fear of death completely disappears. Because when you are

broccoli hash recipe

2011-01-06T15:35:00.002+01:00

We have broccoli here. In fact, in January right after all the holiday meat eating and buying, the butcher comes home from the shop and mutters, (although his muttering is not sotto voce) "the damned Broccoli and lentil eaters are going to ruin us! The broccoli here is gigantic. And it costs a euro. 1 euro a head. A head whose diameter is 12 inches without the outer leaf corona. It is served

Artichokes how I love thy thistle

2011-01-04T21:27:00.002+01:00

We are enjoying our Alkaline broth and as promised artichokes are next on the menu. Now that the Butcher is on board with taking care of his liver, I am enthusiastically getting ready to have liver loving foods in the house. So as I list recipes keep in mind that they are not going to be an all out cold turkey cleanse complete with potions and pills. I will be putting together a good herbal

2011 already here.

2011-01-01T04:25:00.000+01:00

Wishing all a year of Dreams and Intentions Fulfilled. The fireworks have stopped and the spumante has run dry. Already feeling the effects of so much Sicilian food, and ready for the New Year feeling cleaner and lighter. Today I made my Alkaline Broth-- no excuses. It is good for all that ails you. Recipe: I took my pasta pot and added: cleaned, but not peeled 1 whole bunch of celery

5am Bagheria

2010-12-31T07:33:00.000+01:00

Early morning, unable to sleep both Butcher and I went out for a drive. We stopped in and suprised a friend of ours, a local Baker. The shop he works at is rather automated, so at first I did not take any photos, not artisanal enough. Foolish though afterall, as soon as I tasted the first croissant filled with nutella, I was brought back to reality. Delicious. All contents copyright 2004

Coming home for Christmas.

2010-12-25T23:08:00.000+01:00

Arriving in Palermo occurs always after Rome or Milan. The long uncomfortable terminal connections from international arrivals to domestic departures painfully fills the hour and 20 minutes between flights with the regret of overpacked carry-ons which inevitably deposits me at the bottom of one long stairway up to the putt putt that takes me to my final destination. Once out of Rome or Milan

Must Eats in Sicily – an Insider’s Gastronomia. 24 hours in Palermo

2010-08-15T11:31:00.001+02:00

Being the “expert” among friends back home- for all things Sicilian- I occasionally get emails asking for advice. Names have been changed to protect the innocent. I had about 500 words and a few emails to tell them everything I know. Oddly, it was enough. :) Monday July 19th, 1:56pm We’re friends of Carrie Rosen’s daddy (and Carrie also :) ) :) we’re coming to Sicily for 5 days. First stop

Mint Split Pea Soup. Rainy day lunch,

2010-08-14T16:20:00.077+02:00

Suprisingly good. Easy to make. As much as I appreciate and strive to live a slow food lifestyle, sometimes ya gotta settle for almost slow food. This may not be an especially italian soup recipe, but since I am still here, using Italian ingredients, I guess it qualifies. The mint is something I don't see in many recipes, but definitely an ingredient we see more in Sicily these days. Loads

Non c'e niente da fare.... There's nothing to do.....

2010-07-14T00:00:00.003+02:00

Goddess Diana, the huntress, has her own cigarettes. This month the blue pack has the drawing of a hand on it. This is part of a new campaign, "Momenti Italiani" I have seen this pack in the tabacchi for about week, so it can't be a very old campaign. Which leads me to conclude that this is the first installment. This first Italian moment of the campaign, according to Phillip Morris means:

Salumeria

2010-03-04T14:15:00.008+01:00

Rain and mandarine oranges

2010-02-07T11:18:00.003+01:00

It is warmish here today, the spring trend seems to be continuing. Yesterday a farmer, named Michelangelo, who sang at our wedding, was telling us about the crops that have been ruined by the incredible amounts of rain we got in the last month. His fennel, artichokes and fava roots are all flooded. He is such a sweet man , when I expressed my sincere distress about the situation, he smiled a huge

Weather Report

2010-02-04T14:53:00.001+01:00

Weather report first full year in Sicily. Okay, not bad. February 4th and I am feeling spring in the air. This can work. Three days , three important harbingers of spring : Yesterday, Bar Ester, my preferred café here in Bagheria just beyond the reach of the shadows cast by Villa Palagonia, made gelato. I bought gelato, I ate gelato and I loved the gelato. Sette veli mmmmm….. The day

No water for a week, and the Casalinga must go on!

2010-01-23T08:42:00.009+01:00

It's been nearly a week without water in our town. Lots of rain, but no water in the house. Rumor has it that it is sabotage. Someone or some group may have it in for the Mayor. They say it will be back today. Everyone here says "IF" it gets done today. They are the experts, for me to think that it will arrive, and everything back to normal is probably a mistake. Trying to get my head around this

wisdom of the seasons

2010-01-15T14:57:00.001+01:00

Christmas in Sicily is like a parade of sweets. Sicilians LOVE THEIR TREATS. We ate Cassata, cannoli, 7 veils chocolate mousse/cake, panettone, pistachio nutella, regular nutella, and so much of everything else. Then January comes and Mother Nature's merciful wisdom, springs forth the remedy. Wild Greens. All sorts of chicoria, chards, bitter greens. This is the way to love your liver. I think

8am Monday Morning, Where is My Son!!!

2009-12-28T12:25:00.009+01:00

Is the butcher a Mamone?lunedì 28 dicembre 20099.38Sometimes I wish I were a better joke player than I am. Like this morning: My husband has begun sleeping in his own apartment, even though the bed has not been moved yet, with his wife. Me. Apparently this is a cause for confusion with MIL. I wish I could have had the presence of mind to say, "what???!! He told me he was with you tonight!!

Using the Internet in Italy. UGH

2009-12-27T19:06:00.002+01:00

Today in Livorno we went to the local sim card store hoping to solve my internet accesss problem. It seemed that the Wind rechargeable was the best way to go. It amounts to 15 centesimi per hour, but limited to 100 hours per month. My head was spinning by the time I left. Sadly I am limited, there is no unlimited Sprint usb access as there is in the states. So I adapt. Or will attempt to. Each

Siamo Qua.

2009-12-27T11:19:00.004+01:00

This is the life I want. This is the life I have wanted. 55 square meter apartment with a terrace, early morning drinking water with lemon sitting at the kitchen table after an evening of friends for dinner, my loving husband off to work, listening to Bach's unaccompanied cello suite #3 and writing. The dishes from last night are in the sink, a bit of cleaning to do and Sunday lunch to prepare,

Una Montagna Appetibile!

2009-03-10T04:25:00.001+01:00

Una Montagna Appetibile! We have spent Valentine's Day weekend in the Veneto in a small town as we investigate a macelleria in yet another small town. Tired by the prospect of trying to separate the story they are telling us from the things we see and the partial documentation of the facts we have at our disposal, we took a break. And it turned out to be the best idea we've had in a

We've arrived! thoughts on adjusting to new cultures.

2009-01-10T02:20:00.006+01:00

Well the move is partially complete. We are in the north of Italy staying with the Sicilian's family.Challenges left to tackle are:1. Residency completion - so that when we do ship over my remaining worldly goods, I am not faced with a surprisingly ridiculous customs bill.Once when I sent some photos to Sicily, and intelligently claimed them to be worth $100 (in case UPS lost them, I would get

Heading back to the USA for now...

2008-07-26T17:46:00.011+02:00

With business plan in hand and funding in place, the Sicilian headed back to Italy two weeks ago to find a location for our Butchershop/Gastronomy/GlutenFree take away business.I have been speaking with the Sicilian cell phone to cell phone, so communication has been difficult. Vocabulary used on his end accommodates my limited knowledge, so the "proper italian word" is not always used. When it

learning the language

2008-07-18T05:49:00.013+02:00

On the site, Expatsinitaly.com, I read about a book club for Italian and French language learners. Linguality publishes 6 modern fiction and non fiction books a year in each language with annotations alongside the original text. When I first heard of it, I put it on the wishlist and today, I was given this a gift. I will tell you more about it as soon as I get my first book and have had a chance

Penelope

2008-07-17T09:51:00.006+02:00

In 1985 when I lived in Milwaukee, I was initiated to the Sicilian's high regard for the patient woman of valour who waits for her man as he goes to war, leaves her behind, expects her to be faithful while he battles and surrenders to temptation. I was in the living room of a wonderful man from Sant' Elia as he praised Penelope. Then and there, I knew in my heart I was no Penelope and I was kind

Hit the ground running.

2008-07-17T08:24:00.003+02:00

So, yet again it seems that we are returning to Sicily to build our life , business and home.On July 14th The Sicilian returned to Italy to start looking for the home of our new shop. By the time we spoke the night of his arrival home, he had already met with the owner of the shop he had in mind for our business.One year ago he completed his licensing requirements for a food shop.It's been

Todd English gets my blogging juices boiling

2007-08-16T05:38:00.002+02:00

Tonight as the Sicilian and I were sitting watching the food channel Todd English comes on the screen driving a red Ferrari. So of course we had to watch. I am so angry I can't write/I have to write.Millionaire restaurateur drives fast car and talks slow food. A car none of these farmers could ever afford. I love the slow food movement and it's founder Carlo Petrini, is a true gentlemen and

Is there pleasure only in the presence of pain? Beauty beside desolation?

2007-02-16T00:17:00.002+01:00

"Letters on Cezanne"Rainer Marie Rilketranslated by Joel Agee; Fromm International Publishing Corporation, NY; 1985September 13, 1907 (Friday)..." I cannot think back on any time of my life without such reproaches and worse. I believe that the only time I lived without loss were the ten days after Ruth's birth, when I found reality as indescribable, down to it's smallest details, as it surely

That we may all come into the present finished, able and focused

2007-02-14T19:16:00.002+01:00

"Letters on Cezanne"Rainer Marie Rilketranslated by Joel Agee; Fromm International Publishing Corporation, NY; 1985September 13, 1907 (Friday)Nearly 100 years ago." ...Never have I been so touched and almost gripped by the sight of heather as the other day, when I found these three branches in your dear letter. Since then they are lying in my Book of Images, penetrating it with their strong and

Saint Valentine's Day

2007-02-14T17:27:00.001+01:00

Today I received a wonderful bouquet of flowers from my husband.And I have a digital camera that is in the shop! No photo.We have been shuttling back and forth between the States and Italy since we met.I can't tell you how much of a surprise this has come to me, how much is involved in making a move to another country.Thank heavens for ExpatsinItaly.com.I have not written about so much of what is

Weather Report

2007-02-13T16:24:00.002+01:00

Report from Sicily today, "Vento, Vento" wind, wind.Which reminds me of Venice 21years ago. Arriving I am told about "la nebbia, la nebbia".(the Fog) I arrive and I work to find golden mosaic and luminous histories told on canvas, I am struck by the light, light refracted through la nebbia.One night I stroll precipitously close to the Quay, and meet an eye surgeon there for a conference. The

Wearing the Wedding Dress-- again!

2007-01-22T18:54:00.001+01:00

A long weekend at homeopathy clinic. Have I written about how much I am loving this?Probably.Since I am here in the States and no final destination has been decided upon, I feel responsible to my friends over at Expatsinitaly.com to occasionally give a Sicilian tid-bit as I maintain this blog.A sister class mate, who I have not seen in a long time, had gotten engaged and she is lovely, I was very

Yes, the net is in danger and this is no urban legend. Write a letter, click an icon.

2007-01-19T17:09:00.002+01:00

chickpeas

2007-01-17T20:00:00.002+01:00

, Sicily presents interesting challenges. So many of the ingredients featured in characteristically Sicilian dishes are imports. Arab, Norman,Vandal, Greek,Roman, French and Spanish Occupations of Sicily brought with them many new foods to the cuisine. Chick peas, are known to have been in Italy since the Bronze age. It is probably fair to assume that they make up a part of the indigenous cuisine

Shakti Gawain Take That!!!

2007-01-17T17:44:00.001+01:00

Chapter 35Lao-TzuTe-Tao ChingHold on to the Great Image and the whole world will come to you.Come to you and suffer no harm; but rather know great safety and peace.Music and food – for these passing travelers stop.Therefore , of the Tao’s speaking , we say:Insipid, it is! It’s lack of flavor.When you look at it, it’s not sufficient to be seen;When you listen to it, it

Contraband meat in the Palermo Market

2007-01-15T17:09:00.002+01:00

In the market with a camera, this butcher (macellaio) expressed his disinterest in being photographed.When I persuaded him I was just a tourist, he showed me his chops.(easy pun, maybe that's why I don't get paid for this)All contents copyright 2004-2007.All rights reserved.

Sunday with homeopathy and doing the Casalinga

2007-01-14T19:42:00.002+01:00

Yesterday we went to my homeopath. Both of us. I am still a silent rattlesnack and the man I live with is a nut. A poison nut. I knew about the nut part. And aggravatingly so, I knew about what kind of nut too.My homeopath is a good one. Everytime he gets the remedy right. I did too this time. Kind of wish I had trusted myself on this more and saved ourselves the trip.So, I return to my studies,

Why did I ever think that this moniker would last?

2007-01-12T04:43:00.002+01:00

I am back in the states after a few aborted attempts at living in Sicily. A decision based on a dream of going back, but needing to eat when we arrive and have a place to live.I have been here since October. And I miss my past. Perhaps this is part of the being married thing, or perhaps it is my overcompensation to married life. I woke this morning with a dream of someone from my past and we were

Rotting Milk.

2007-01-11T04:29:00.002+01:00

Rainer Marie Rilke

2007-01-01T03:31:00.006+01:00

from The Book of ImagesAnd you wait, await the one thingthat will infinitely increase your life,the gigantic, the stupendous,the awakening of stones,depths turned round toward you.The volumes in brown and goldflicker dimly on the bookshelves;and you think of lands traveled through,of paintings, of the garmentsof women found and lost.And then all at once you know: that was it.You rise, and there

Part 2 - Contraband shopping

2006-09-01T20:00:00.002+02:00

7:30pm zipping through rainy streets from Palermo to Bagheria, eating our olive rolls, we still need saffron, milk and ricotta. It's not hot like it is during the summer, but the clock stops for no one in Sicily. 8:30pm will arrive and all chances to complete this shopping list will be gone. We drive through Bagheria. The Butcher pulls over in a remote apartment complex and talks to a young

Contraband Shopping

2006-09-01T19:59:00.002+02:00

Today I bought a yogurt maker. All the sugar this month has gottento me. In my experience after a sugar overload those active live cultures from yogurt help a lot.At first I thought I would try to recreate the sheep's milk yogurt I have in Paris. F. has a "connection" with the dairy farmer who brings the fresh ricotta to the butcher shop

getting used to a small town

2006-08-29T14:38:00.002+02:00

It's been 2 years and 6 weeks that I have been visiting and living in this small town of 53,000 in Northern Sicily. I am married to a man who was born here, grew up here and spent most of his life here. Why then, when I realize my permesso di soggiorno is in the hands of a former girlfriend's mom - am I surprised?It's bound to happen, this sort of thing, right?Since I have become a wife, I have

where I've been

2006-08-21T22:35:00.002+02:00

On July 31st, at 12 noon in the town where I met the Sicilian butcher two years ago, we got married. And the past year and a half have been spent starting and stopping our lives every three months or so as we had to fly back and forth between the States and Sicily. I am not complaining. Just telling the truth. No excuses, just a modest

Comfort Food

2006-01-27T22:42:00.004+01:00

With all the upset from one country to another, my Sicilian Butcher and I have fallen into a kind of comfort food safety net. It's funny, I think about food and place as related mostly to terroir, the land, the agriculture. I used to say that winter existed for the sole purpose of producing mandarin oranges and clementines. This too, sadly has changed. The winter is an important growing season

A rare cappuccino

2006-01-10T15:47:00.002+01:00

Zia Michellina's Bruschetta

2005-01-17T01:41:00.004+01:00

Since my visit to Agrigento on December 15th I have been eating tomatoes grown and picked in August, from Zio Mario's farm. Fresh, firm, plum tomatoes. They are fresh, fresh 4 months after picking. Zio Mario swears by his "own special method" which grows them "kind of dry," so they remain this way for what is now 4-5 months. Miracles of nature if you ask me.Today a

Lemon Granita

2004-08-09T19:36:00.005+02:00

I do not like doing things in person here. I miss being able to pick up the phone and arrange things. But here most things benefit face to face. When the person you need is the person you find. And that is a challenge. They are always coming back later, and later seems lost in the slow motion of life here. Everybody is trying to get someplace else and fast. What about these fast cars throughout

Unemployed

2004-08-08T21:09:00.002+02:00

This afternoon we visited Santa Rosalia the Patron Saint of Palermo. We scaled the scores of stone steps to a bright, white even hopeful church. It's damp, dark interior is the cave where Rosalia lived in prayer and solitude till the end of her life during the 16th Century. Hundreds of penned notes, requests, tokens, offerings and prayers nearly litter the walls and bowls set out for this

Chick pea , lemon and rosemary soup

2004-08-07T19:58:00.003+02:00

These days are so hot, I am grateful for the break midday. I have come to love my day being dictated by an uncompromising force. I must get up early, I must work in the morning, shop before 1 and have lunch at 1:30. I no longer have the freedom of being able to "do it" whatever it may be, anytime. I now have the freedom of having done it. There is no alternative, procrastination comes with too

Festa Di San Giuseppe

2004-08-07T13:43:00.002+02:00

This afternoon, while checking my email for farmer replies (as usual) there came a sound from outside. It was kind of a combination of Tibetan and Hebrew chanting. Asking folks on the street what he was singing - No one knew. Every year these million dollar carts are paraded through the streets of San Giuseppe and drawn by majestic plumed beasts, and every year these songs are sung that no one

Super Store Super Sad

2004-08-06T19:50:00.002+02:00

Before LunchFarm update: Nothing.Spent some time on the internet today and learned that I have nothing to do but wait .I wait, I wait for the fruit to ripen on farms, I wait for this love affair to bear fruit, if it will. 11 days a love affair too early to know, too early to say.Mother Pazienza Sicilia teaches me.This morning I was invited to visit him where he

Paper Palermo

2004-08-05T08:51:00.002+02:00

In Palermo yesterday, I met some paper guys in the La Kalsa district.And a day later realize how something like this is only possible in a place that has no rain.All contents copyright 2004-2009.All rights reserved.

Riding the wave.

2004-08-03T20:39:00.002+02:00

No news from the farmers. I send emails. I call. No one responds positively. Neither the Calabrese nor the Siciliani. Seems that everyone is getting ready for the festa, the few weeks in August when the country closes. It’s too hot in Sicily to harvest anything and all the plantings been done ages ago, so the work on the farms is minimal. No need for little old

Heading Home from Cefalu

2004-07-26T20:01:00.003+02:00

No response from any farmers yet.After class today Ilona, a fellow classmate and I spent the afternoon in Cefalu. Ilona comes to Sicily every year for at least a week. She is one of several Northern European women who gather for an annual mediterranean adventure.We started off with going to bar with my name, ate a terrific sandwich with Tuma, red onion, sweet like

Something's up in Aspra

2004-07-25T19:52:00.002+02:00

Spent the day at home today. Everyone went into Palermo. I had the house all to myself. Reading, swimming, studying Italian. Since it is Sunday, the internet places are closed, so I spent another day surrendered to the sea and sun. I am not complaining. My friends returned tonight and we headed into Aspra to learn what the past week of empty tents were about. The

Sardines and Coconut in Disneyland

2004-07-24T20:02:00.002+02:00

Out this morning with my Swedish Housemate to shop for pranzo. The walk down the hill lets us know that the day will be hot, really hot. I count my blessings that I was up early enough to beat the sun's merciless salutation.On the Boardwalk in Aspra there is a nutseller I like a lot. A father and daughter. Everyday I stop a nd have a piece of coconut. A tiered fountain with cool water keeps the

Early in the day, before the sweltering heat sets upon me.

2004-07-23T15:44:00.002+02:00

Today I awaken determined to get a haircut.Dreams from a previous night. Details so fleeting. I am in an elevator and am taken to a place where I am told I am dead and have one day left to take care of what I care about and I think of my cat. Only bingo, who I want to stroke and be sure he is okay is all I have left to tie me here. He is okay I learn and I see there is nothing left for me to do.

Shopping for lunch

2004-07-20T17:16:00.005+02:00

I am off first thing this morning to town, trying to find a store of some type which is open on a Sunday morning before Aspra shutters out the midday sun.Jackpot! Little thin paper bags overflow with PEACHES !bright red tomatoes that look like flowers, I have never seen tomatoes like this. Thinly sliced mortadella, bread so fresh the sesame seeds practically quiver.Lettuce a little wilted looking

Fried Rice Sicilian Style

2004-07-20T08:48:00.002+02:00

The days of the past week have been quiet. My mornings are spent in class, my afternoons in the heat, protected by the awnings, and despite my best efforts ,they are spent speaking English with my Swedish housemate, and the really lovely West German woman downstairs.Today a school of anchovies swam before me. Shiny little fishes, so cute. Cheerful and happy. .This afternoon, the three of us made

Pasta Con Sarde

2004-07-16T22:30:00.002+02:00

Today I arrive and am exhausted. Rain in Newark saw me off and cold damp greeted me in London. Paralyzing heat crushed me at Punta Raisi, Palermo. Communication as tired as I am is an exercise in humility; an imprecise consequence of spotting an unsuspecting, friendly enough looking person who survives my inarticulate mumblings. After shifting my luggage, checking the dictionary, stringing a few

How to begin

2004-07-12T10:30:00.002+02:00

Getting ready, I ask, how do I get ready?These last days before the next adventure begin slowlyand sensually. The sun rises yet does not revealitself from the Gray of this morning, and steamrises over the rice, peppers -red, orange, green andpurple sizzle. Under cover, under the gray, almostsecretly, in my hands somehow colors and smellsdelivered by some farmer, from somewhere I don't knowwhere,